Dogs Are Not People! Understanding the Differences Between People and Dogs and Using This Information In Your Relationship With Your Pet
Dogs are not people. It may seem like an obvious observation, but so many people make the mistake time and time again of expecting their dog to act and think like a person. They attribute human traits and emotions to these noble animals and thus undermine their whole relationship, sending confusing signals and stressing the dog.
Remember, the dog is an animal. Yes, even your cute little friend who curls up on the sofa next to you and loves to have his tummy tickled. He’s an animal, and he MUST be treated as such to give him a healthy, fulfilling life. Small dogs are particularly prone to being treated as children or babies and this can lead to a multitude of behavioural problems, not to mention confusion and misery for the dog.
Firstly, let’s look at the exchange of love between ourselves and our dogs. Most of us love our dogs and can feel a warm spot in the middle of our chests when we see them or think of them. Does the dog feel that too? We have to assume not. He loves us, but he loves us in a different way. He relies on us for his well-being and survival. He looks to us (if we are successful) as a leader of his pack and he trusts us in our decisions.
He is happy to be with you because he is a pack animal and his attachment to you may well be very deep. But he doesn’t have the complicated love-psychology of a human being. He doesn’t have the same concept of ethics and morality and he certainly doesn’t know anything above and beyond what his animal instincts tell him. If a friend of yours enters the house and your dog doesn’t like him, he’s not going to be nice to the friend for your sake! Conversely, he doesn’t misbehave or sulk to get attention or pay you back for something you did. These are human emotions and motives that we attribute to our dogs almost unconsciously.
We should also look at the concept of praise and punishment in training. On the whole, I advocate praising good behaviour and ignoring misbehaviour. I do not believe in punishing a dog for bad behaviour, but sometimes a short, sharp shout can be a good reminder to a dog that is doing something he knows he shouldn’t. It is essential to remember that you can only praise or give correction to your dog AT THE VERY MOMENT he is exhibiting the behaviour in question. He is not a child and will not know nor remember what he did five minutes ago. This is a fundamental difference between people and dogs and if remembered, will make training a much easier task.
So the key to this is think like a dog. Imagine you are a pack animal like him. Don’t ever think of him as a human, still less a child or a baby, whatever his size and however cute his face. You have to hard-wire this concept into your relationship with your dog and he will only thank you for it. He is a dog, an animal, and only by truly understanding this will you be able to fulfill his needs and form a meaningful, satisfying relationship for both of you.
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Mar 08, 2010 | | Dogs
Dog Training Collars and Harnesses – Making the Proper Selection is Essential to Training Success
Dog training is an art, and like any artist you must pick your tools carefully in order to properly train your dog. Each dog is different, and thus you must be able to decide which collar is most appropriate for your dog based on its temperament, personality, and strength. Below, you will find a description of all the major varieties of dog training collars that you might come across when deciding to purchase one for you pooch.
The metal choke collar is perhaps the most popular and widely used collar in the dog training world. It should be used in training larger, stronger dogs that tend to take YOU for a walk.
The metal toggle choke collar is basically the same as you regular choke collar with the major difference being that you can correct you dog easily by using the toggle while your dog is off-leash.
The pinch collar should be used RARELY and only in situations where the choke collar is ineffective in controlling your dog (i.e. in situations where your dog is very strong, where its highly aggressive, and when it repeatedly lunges at other dogs and people).
The fur saver choke collar is designed to control the dog without leaving chain marks around the dogs’ neck or getting fur caught in the chain which sometimes occurs when using an ordinary metal choke collar. It is mainly used when showing dogs and NOT in training them because the dogs don’t tend to respond to them in training and they don’t give the quick jerk needed for proper correction.
The nylon choke collar is best used in small dogs and puppies up to 3 months, because they tend to be more gentle and they tend to get young puppies used to wearing a collar.
The gentle head leader is best used on dogs that are more shy and easily corrected (i.e. dogs that respond quickly to your commands and dogs that tend to cringe upon your correction).
The electronic collar is mainly used for two reasons: first its used on field dogs (i.e. in bird hunting) and second it is used as a means of training the “out” command to a protection dog in its bite training phase.
The tracking harness is used for exactly what its name suggests: for tracking game, suspects, lost individuals, or competition articles.
And finally, the seeing eye dog harness is designed so that the dog’s owner can hang on to the lead while the dog guides her to her destination. Unlike other leads, this lead is designed so that the dog can pull its owner forward as it walks instead of gently walking beside her on loose lead.
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Feb 21, 2010 | | Dogs
One of the most confusing and anxiety-ridden areas of dog training is house training. Yet, it is one of the most important, especially for the humans involved.
The best way to understand and find success with house training is to use the dogs own nature to help you.
Dogs are, by instinct, very clean animals. They would rather not soil any areas where they normally sleep or eat. Dogs are also creatures of habit — they like to know where theyre supposed to go urinate and defecate. If the dog is taught to eliminate on gravel or concrete, they will tend to look for either of those surfaces to do so. If theyre taught to eliminate on grass or dirt, thats where they will choose. Use these habits to your advantage.
Setting up the training area
This is the first step. Make sure the area you choose is small and confined. A bathroom works for this, or a place in a kitchen or garage also work well. Remember that crate training works well for puppies or small dogs, but for the larger animals, the crate is too confining.
You need to spend some time with this aspect of the training. You need to play with your dog in this area, and this is also where the dog will be taught to sleep and eat. Put together a special bed. This can be something you make up with items around the house, or you can go to the store and purchase a bed. Dont worry of your dog eliminates in this area at first. Once they figure out that this is where the sleep and eat, theyll stop eliminating there.
Once your dog realizes that the bed is for sleeping, you can begin to move it around the house. But, only when youre there. When youre not, put the bed back in the training area.
Setting up the toilet area
Now you need to determine where the toilet area is going to be located. Presumably, this will be outside the house. Wherever it is, it has to a place that the dog can go to whenever it needs to go. You need to go there with your dog so you can give the appropriate rewards for good behavior.
Establish a set feeding schedule for your dog. If the dog is in the habit of being fed at certain times, the natural process of elimination will also begin to occur at certain times. Once you learn when those times relate to the eating times, it will become much easier for you to guide the dog to the established toilet area.
Dont forget to make sure your dog has ready access to the toilet area. That way mistakes arent as likely to occur.
Continuing the house training process
Once your dog is in the habit of eliminating in the toilet area and not in the sleeping/eating area, you can begin to extend the training area to the rest of the house. Do this slowly. Start by expanding to one additional room, and then gradually expand into other areas. Dont expand into new areas until youre sure your dog has control of its bladder and bowels. At first, do this only when youre around. If youre away, then put your dog back in the original training area.
Speeding up the process
If you have to move this process along more quickly, you can do so. Remember to proceed with caution, though. Its better to go slowly than to have to try to retrain a dog later. If youre going to try to speed things up, you will have to be there in order to reward your dog for successful eliminations. It is also important not to punish for mistakes. That will only confuse the dog and slow the process even further.
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Feb 09, 2010 | | Dogs
Dog collars are an important accessory of mans best friend they include your dogs registration tags, ID, and even leads (for leashes). When looking for the right collar for your pet dog, its nice to know you have lots of options. Here are some tips to guide your shopping.
You need to find a collar that will fit around your dogs neck exactly. And as long as this is the case, you can basically choose whatever color, pattern, or style you like.
For small dogs, pick out a collar that is neither too heavy nor too light. For puppies, a thin, leather collar or a soft, nylon collar is ideal. As for bigger, stronger dogs, wider and heavier collars are best. To make sure that a collar is the right fit on your dog, make sure you can squeeze at least two fingers in between the dogs neck and the collar. It should be a tight squeeze though, as you dont want to the collar to be too loose. Finally, you will want to cut off the excess length of strap because otherwise, the dog might chew it.
A snap-on type fastener is the most common replacement for buckle collars, because it makes for easy adjustment of a collars length. As for choke collars, they are cool looking but shouldnt be used on younger puppies gentler, training collars are better.
Moreover, leather collars are long-lasting and are naturally softened by the oils of a dogs skin and they come in a variety of styles, widths, and colors. Nylon collars are washable and durable and are perfect for dogs that like to swim and for smaller dogs and puppies that need a softer touch. For bigger dogs, a nylon collar is okay, but it will need to be one with heavy webbing.
There are other collars that suit very specific kinds of dogs. For surfers, there are collars that are made out of the same material as wetsuits! And for those impatient dogs that pull on your leash during walks, head collars are the best option and are often used in training. A harness can come in handy with an anxious or hyperactive dog as well, as it is positioned around the dogs chest and ribcage to prevent choking some harnesses even allow you to buckle your dog into your car!
There are all sorts of colors and patterns to choose from and most collars come with matching leashes. Because it is important for your dog to feel as comfortable as possible, put careful time and consideration into your search for the perfect collar.
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Dec 19, 2009 | | Dogs
Choosing the appropriate toys will make your small dog’s play time richer, while lessening his chance of accidental injury. Safe toys for your small dog can be purchased from pet supply stores or even made from household items, but it’s good to keep these few main safety concerns in mind.
Size Matters With Small Dog Toys
In general, small dog toys should never be small enough to fit entirely in your dog’s mouth, or be capable of being broken into smaller pieces that can stick in his throat. A dog toy that’s too small can easily bounce back in your dog’s mouth and obstruct his windpipe, meaning he could suffocate to death if you aren’t in the immediate area to intervene! Sadly, this has happened to more than one dog. For that reason, small smooth balls just aren’t the best choice for most dogs.
Tennis balls and the larger, hard rubber balls are big enough to stay out of the throats of most small dogs (make sure both kinds of balls are still whole and strong and not cracked). The small pull ropes found in pet aisles are also a good choice of toy for your small dog, unless you find him attempting to eat the rope when you’re not busy playing. In that case, small fibers and threads from the rope can get stuck in his throat which again can be dangerous, especially if you’re not around to help.
Very high quality, unusual shaped dog toys like Kongs are also a good choice for small dogs. Even much larger dogs find it virtually impossible to chew Kongs into smaller pieces that can lodge in the throat and cause problems, not to mention Kongs can be made infinitely fascinating to your dog by stuffing them with dog treats, peanut butter or frozen beef broth.
Ever thought of getting your small dog a pool? Most dogs love water, and will adore chasing their toys in and out of the pool. For small dogs, however, it’s terribly important to make sure they can easily clamber out, even when heavy and wet from the water. Make sure the sides of the pool are low and that your dog’s head easily clears the water. Avoid pools entirely for the toy dogs.
Is your small dog a ripper, or does he play nicely with his toys? Dogs that are gentle can play relatively safely with a wide variety of toys, including small plush animals and squeaky toys. Other, more aggressive dogs need to be kept safe from toys with ribbons, “googly eyes,” or toys containing a squeaker, which can be chewed loose and pose a danger if swallowed.
Materials Matter For Small Dog Toys
No matter how carefully constructed, most dog toys are capable of splitting or crumbling at some point, and being ingested by your dog. This poses two problems. Most dog toy materials are naturally not meant to be eaten, and some can cause digestive trouble. Worse, if the piece in question is sharp, it can even puncture the dog internally. So it makes sense to select non-toxic small dog toys that don’t contain any brittle materials. The safest route is to stick to high quality latex and vinyl toys crafted specifically for use with dogs. The manufacturers of higher-end products, such as Kongs, have gone to great lengths to eliminate these kinds of risks.
No matter what small dog toys you select for your pet, keeping these main safety points in mind should help you choose appropriate toys for your small dog that leave him happy and entertained — and safe.
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Dec 18, 2009 | | Dogs
Basic small dog care is much the same as for larger dogs, but owners need to make a few adjustments to best meet their small dog’s needs. Consider the following daily dog care routines, and how theyre adapted to meet the needs of your pint-sized pup.
Feeding Your Small Dog
Naturally you’re going to feed your dog daily, but the standard-size kibble at the grocery store may be too large for your small dog to eat comfortably. You’ll need to be sure to buy a kibble designed to fit his smaller mouth (these are easy to find among the premium dog food brands). Canned soft foods are also perfectly suitable for your small dog.
Containing Your Small Dog
All dogs need exercise and a safe place to potty outdoors, and a fenced-in yard provides all the security they need, right? Not necessarily when it comes to small dogs. A fence that adequately holds a bigger dog may have gaps large enough for a small dog to fit between or under, allowing him to escape. Fences also can’t provide overhead protection from large hawks, which sadly have been known to carry small dogs and puppies away. A covered kennel run might better meet your small dogs needs.
Training Your Small Dog
Small dogs arent any harder to train than large dogs, yet the consensus of many pet experts is that many of them end up spoiled. No matter if he fits in a purse or a pocket, your small dog still sees the world in terms of pack behavior, and if youre not leading the pack, he is. Its a wise idea to make sure your small dog is thoroughly housetrained, no matter how small and inconsequential the mess might seem when he misses. Dog experts also suggest you make your small dog work for you, to keep him responsive to your rules. Have him sit or do tricks before you give him a tasty treat or even his meal.
Grooming Your Small Dog
Small dog care includes some special grooming needs youll need to keep in mind. Small dogs require more frequent nail trimming than larger dogs, because they typically spend less time on rough surfaces wearing them down. You’ll also need to brush your small dog’s teeth twice a week if youre feeding a soft canned food diet.
As you can see, small dog care largely follows the same route as care for any other sized dog. The differences may seem like minor details, but paying attention to them can make a big impact when it comes to meeting your small dogs special needs.
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Dec 14, 2009 | | Dogs
Many pet owners may be surprised to learn a dog’s dental health is as important to overall well-being as a daily game of fetch.
Dental problems in pets go way beyond bad breath. Periodontal disease is the most common health problem in dogs today. At least 80 percent of dogs suffer from it by age 2. Left untreated, dental problems can be very painful and affect the quality of a pet’s life.
Small-breed dogs under 20 pounds are at an even greater risk than larger breeds. First, small dogs have small mouths that crowd the teeth, and second, those teeth are excessively large for those small jaws.
Fortunately, small breeds don’t need to suffer, says Dr. Daniel Carmichael, veterinary dental specialist with the Veterinary Medical Center in West Islip, N.Y. He recommends:
1. See your veterinarian for regular dental checkups. Work with your vet to schedule regular professional dental checkups and ask how you can maintain your pet’s dental health. Monitor for bad breath, which can be a sign of a more serious dental problem.
2. Brush those canines. Daily tooth brushing is the best way to remove and prevent plaque build- up. You can try the new state-of-the-art Hartz Dental™ Electric Tooth-brush to make brushing your dog’s teeth easier. It features a vibrating brush head and, when used as directed, is clinically proven to reduce tartar by 85 percent and plaque by 28 percent after three weeks. Use toothpaste made for dogs (beef-flavored paste is appealing to pets) as it’s designed to be swallowed and does not foam up in the mouth.
3. Choose smart snacks for your dog. Chewing rawhide has been proven in clinical studies to help reduce plaque and tartar. Tasty beef and chicken flavors encourage your pooch to chew longer, increasing the dental benefits. Another option is Hartz Dental™ Nutri-Fresh Chew™ with OdorZap™ crystals to freshen breath, in addition to reducing tartar up to 61 percent.
4. Provide toys with dental benefits. Some newer chew toys have raised tips that help remove plaque and tartar. The Hartz Dental™ Chew™ ‘n Clean Deli Cuts are one example and come in three yummy flavors. These toys provide chewing exercise to strengthen gums and help relieve anxiety and boredom.
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Dec 09, 2009 | | Dogs
Bones for Your Dog – Delicious Treat or A Deadly Snack?
There is a difference of opinion among canine experts as to whether bones should be given to a dog raw, cooked, hard, or soft, and even whether they should be given at all. On one point, however, there is total agreement, never give a dog splintering bones from chicken, pork, fowl, and rabbit, (although chicken bones that have been cooked in a pressure cooker until they are very soft can be quite nourishing and safe).
A marrow bone is the traditional symbol of a treat for a dog, and he obviously appreciates it. It may be too big and hard for small dogs. In fact, large breeds generally handle bones much better than small ones. Bones that are mostly cartilage, such as spinal and shoulder bones of veal, knuckle bones, and soft rib bones, are good chewing material that can be entirely consumed.
The real danger is intestinal compaction, especially in small dogs, if the masticated bone has not been mixed with other residue in the dog’s stomach. A small amount should cause no trouble if it is given right after a meal. Chop and steak bones are more dangerous. Careful eaters simply clean off the meat and fat, but greedy gobblers run the risk of internal injury from jagged bone splinters. The same is true of a leg of lamb bone.
What is the best policy to follow with a dog of your own? A teething puppy between four and six months of age should always have a bone, real or imitation, to chew on. You might give an adult dog a suitable bone as on occasional treat – for example, once a week. It will give him enormous pleasure, will help to keep his teeth clean and free from tartar, and will occupy him for several hours. But a nylon bone offers the same advantages without the risk!
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Dec 05, 2009 | | Dogs
Beyond Blackey & Smokey – 10 Great Ideas for Naming Black Dogs
How can you look the dog in the eyes ever again? Every time you call his name, he wallows in shame. You’ve banished him to the lowest level of dog name hell – you’ve named your Lab “Blackey.”
Any four-year-old can explain that a dog’s name should reflect something about him – the way he looks, the way he acts, what he likes to eat something. So most four-year-olds will take the next most obvious step – naming a black dog Blackey… or Smokey… or something equally inane.
The thought that so many grown adults were not able to muster more creativity could undermine our society’s basic faith in democracy. So let’s hope that the over-abundance of such uninspiring monikers is the work of children – parents’ having left the honor of naming the family pet to junior or sissy. While common, this type of delegation is rarely a good idea. Remember: Dogs can last half a generation; your little tyke will be mighty embarrassed in college to own up to a dog named Blackey.
So to help inspire you – or your little one – here are some more unique names – and naming ideas – that might help you side-step the pit of pet name remorse:
1. Dirty Stuff: Grunge, Pitch, Soot (or Sooty), Spade
2. Darkness: Dusky, Midnight, Shade (or Shady), Twilight
3. Black / Dark Clothing: Patch, Sable, Suede, Tux (or Tuxedo), Velvet
4. Black Food: Gumbo, Goulash, Meatball, Meatloaf, Molasses, Mushroom, Plum, Rib-eye, Roux (Avoid Pepper)
5. Coffee Derivatives: Chicory, Latte, Mocha
6. Dark Beers: Guinness, Porter, Stout, Xingu
7. Small Black Dogs: (Also cute for very large dogs.) Scrap, Smudge, Smidgeon, Speck, Splotch, Wisp
8. Black as Evil: (These can be particularly cute for very large or very small dogs.) Cujo, Darth, Jezebel, Katrina, Lilith, Mordor, Reaper, Smut, Snitch, Sorrow, Vader, Vice, Wicked
9. Traditional or Famous Black First Names: (Most appropriate for African-American families.) Tanika, Aisha, Oprah, Bionce, Latifa, Snoop
10. African Geography: Congo, Morocco, Rwanda, Uganda
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Dec 04, 2009 | | Dogs
‘Sit Up’ Buddy: Training Your Dog To Sit Like You
The trick of sitting up is easily taught to small dogs, but should try not be included in a big dogs education, as it is difficult for them to preserve their balance.
The training of sitting up is one of the first tricks to teach and forms the groundwork for many other dog tricks. To train a dog to sit up, prepare some treats as a reward, and set your dog on his haunches in a corner, so that he cannot fall either backward or sideways and has very little or no space to lose balance.
Keep him from pitching forward by holding one hand under his chin and with the other hand hold the treat above his nose and keep repeating distinctly and deliberately say, sit up. Do not make him sit up too long at any one time, but repeat the lesson frequently and reward him often with plentiful of praise and treats.
During his first lesson he will require considerable assistance from your hand to prevent him from pitching forward, but as he gets control of the balancing muscles and understands what you want, he will depend less and less upon your hand to keep him in position and you can gradually render him less assistance until you will only have to keep one hand in position two or three inches from his neck or chin, so as to be ready to prevent him pitching forward; later on you can withdraw this hand entirely and simply hold the treat just above the level of his head.
By constant practice he will sit up well after you set him up; then he should be set up against the wall, so as to afford him a support for his back only, and after he has been well schooled at this and can keep his position easily, practice him against chair legs, cushions or other objects that afford him less and less assistance, until finally he learns to preserve his balance and sits up without anything to lean against.
During all these lessons the words sit up have been impressed upon his mind by frequent repetition, and now comes the final lesson to teach him to sit up as soon as he hears the words, and the chances are, if he has been diligently drilled, it will be necessary only to call him out in the room, show him a treat, hold it up a suitable distance from the floor, say sit up and he will do so, when he should be given the treat while still in position.
The only necessity to perfection is to practice him several times a day until he will sit up at the word and without being shown a reward; that can be given him after he has obeyed.
You have now a foundation for many other tricks. He can be taught to beg by moving your hand up and down just in front of his paws, which he will move in unison with yours. He can also be taught to salute by bringing one paw up to the side of his head, or to hold a wooden pipe in his mouth, or to wear a cap on his head or other articles of wearing apparel.
In teaching a dog to submit to being dressed up, do not attempt to get him to wear too many things at once; try him at first with a cap and after he becomes accustomed to that you can put on a coat and gradually accustom him to the other clothing articles.
Enjoy teaching your dog the sit up trick and most importantly have fun along the way!
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Nov 11, 2009 | | Dogs